Showing posts with label strips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label strips. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Tech Tip Tuesday

One of my former students who took my class last year has decided that he'd like to build another canoe. He built a very nice staple-less Wee Lassie II that he's going to give to his wife for her use. I think that he did an excellent job with the canoe. I'm hoping to be able to post a picture of his boat here for a Wordless Wednesday post.

At any rate, this fellow really wants a slightly longer and wider canoe so that he can use it to fish from. Additionally he wants this longer and wider canoe to be very, very light-weight for carrying in to his chosen fishing haunts. He's chosen the Solo Portage by Rob Macks of Laughing Loon.

In order to reduce the weight of his finished canoe, he's going to try two things. First, he's gone looking for Atlantic White Cedar which is a bit less dense than Western Red Cedar. (22 lb/cubic foot versus 23 pounds/cubic foot) He's also going to be ripping the strips to 3/32" thickness - a 25% savings in the weight of the strips. To that end, I made up another spacer disk to go between a pair of Freud Diablo thin-kerf blades that would allow him to cut two strips at a time. This new gang-sawing set-up; similar to one I posted previously, is seen below:


He's pretty picky, 'tho. He wants a pretty canoe, too. He wants to build a staple-less boat again and he wants to build a canoe with continuous strips so no scarfs show. To do this, I think he needs 15 or 16 foot long stock.

This COULD be a problem, as he has a rather nice, but somewhat small workshop in a barn at his house. As a matter of fact, it's too small for him to rip the strips in a continuous length.

However, necessity is the mother of invention.

Check out the pictures that he sent to me of his solution....

Below is his table saw as seen from the outfeed side. Note that the workbench under the window is at exactly the same height as the table saw's work surface. Pay particular attention to the light colored area directly beneath the window.


Here's the outside of the same window. Again, note the light colored area below the window. Oh yeah, and the hinges...


And, voila, here we have the open infeed doors!


The only thing that I wonder now is if he has enough room or now has doors on the outfeed side, too!

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Like a charm.


Yes, you're seeing double - blades, that is.

The first year that I taught cedar-strip canoe building, we had some plain steel blades that we were using in a patternmaker's table saw. The progress was painfully slow. As the saw blade would warm up a bit, it would cup and then bind the board being cut. On top of the fact that it was a poor set-up, it was frustrating for the students and it wasted stock because it required the boards to be jointed to get a straight edge on the stock. At the time, it took about 3 hours to rip enough stock for a canoe.

The next year we improved the situation with a Freud thin kerf blade. It was much better as the damping and expansion slots prevented cupping of the blade. The carbide tips and undercut teeth help things go well in the saws at the school. We were cutting one strip at a time and the blade, at .093" thick wasn't bad, but it was slow. We resorted to the same method last year, but used a .062" thick blade intended for use in a circular saw. We wasted less stock to sawdust, and it wasn't bad, but still was slow.

This year, I got serious. I had a brass spacer made to go between two of the .062" thick Freud thin kerf 7-1/4" blades. We set them up in the saw with a stabilizer disk. As you can see in the picture above, we've got a new zero-clearance insert to deal with the gang-sawing assembly. The featherboards and sacrificial fence aren't new, and work well. This year it took 30 minutes to cut a boat's worth of stock. Much better.

Our next improvement is going to be either a power feeder or some of the one-way feed rollers to help crowd the stock into the fence and down to the table.

A final picture of a happy student ripping stock!

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Duhh....


I've been trying to write a blog post about putting feature strips in a strip-built boat for about 2 weeks now. Part of my problem is the fact that I don't have good pictures of strips in progress. This is one of those posts were a picture is worth more than a thousand words.

The other issue is that this is one of those times when there are many, many ways to approach this task - I could write a week of posts and just scratch the surface. The post I was writing was getting far too large. I guess I'll try to break it up into smaller bites and present it over the next week.

I'd appreciate any feedback you all may have to offer about these posts!

Thanks go to icanhascheeseburger for the picture.

Saturday, March 8, 2008

Making My Life Easy

Ok, what IS that thing?

Well, it is one of the things that makes my life easy in my cedar strip canoe building class. It's basically the first version of a router table that we use to cut the cove-and-bead features on the cedar strips used to build the canoes. Above the hole in the middle of the picture is a router with the cove cutter and below the table is another router with the bead cutter. Featherboards hold the strips down to the table and against the fence.

I hear the crowd going "Yeah, so?"

This thing saves a HUGE amount of time. It cuts the cove and bead at the same time and can be adjusted to fit narrow or wide strips. For each boat built, about 1/4 mile of linear strips get cut. You can do it in about an hour. That's pretty good.

We have found a few down-sides after using it for 3 years:
  • need better dust collection
  • chips have actually worn away the plywood
  • need a fool-proof (idiot-proof?) way to avoid the cutters coming together
  • dovetails on the coarse adjustment are set too wide and jam
  • both cutters need better fine adjustment
I'm thinking of a new and improved version. I've got a question for you all - should I be publishing an article about it?