A small boat blog with a mish-mosh of life thrown in!
What model of canoe is that? It reminds me of a Wee Lassie II but I wouldn't expect you to need to extend the strongback for that design.
It is a Wee Lassie II. We usually trim the strongback's top beam (Symmetrical diagonal cuts at both ends...) to avoid bonding the hull to the strongback in this area.With the box-beam design that we're now using, the deck is 1/2" plywood and overhangs the sides to achieve that taper. As we don't want the stem forms to "droop", we supported it with a piece of 2x6 that is screwed to the end blocks of the box beam and to the deck. We probably could have used something lighter, but it was what we had available at the time. As I've mentioned earlier, because we move these on a weekly basis, we want them to be fairly robust, and this end detail is precisely for that reason.
Ah, I see. I think the combination of the apparently-extended box beam and the relative delicacy of the deck compared to the forms made me think the forms were bigger. My box beam is probably excessively heavy, being made of 3/4 inch plywood top and bottom and 1 x 4s for the sides. And crud--you have pointed out a difficulty; I should probably dig out a hole saw and cut a hole under the tips of the stems of my new design, because it didn't occur to me to raise every station to keep the tips of the stems off the strongback.Hm... Though I could just tape some 6 mill plastic across that part. That will peel off epoxy just fine.
You could use tape, or after you remove the boat (if you didn't bond it to the strongback) take a heat gun and scrape off the softened epoxy.I guess I should clarify - the box underneath the deck is short, not the deck itself.
Post a Comment